The programme plan for drains pipes installing
The programme plan for drains pipes installing
Before carrying through any DIY plumbing, soakaway setup and drainage work, you should first take into consideration the rules issued by your Local Authority.
If you are considering altering your existing drainage, or installing a new sewage system you will almost certainly need to present some detailed plans of the work that you intend to undertake and it will need to be inspected as the work progresses making sure that it complies with the local building regulations. In most cases they do not need to be notified for a simple replacement of broken parts.
Surface water is basically rain. In older properties this can discharged into a foul water sewage system whereas in other properties this can discharged into a soakaway, watercourse or a surface water sewer. If gully traps are fixed at the junction of the rainwater pipe and the waste water drain, foul odour can be controlled. But modern systems are especially created so that dirty water and surface water remain separate. Foul water should never be connected to surface water drainage system with any new sewage development you undertake. If you have doubts about your house’s sewage system, you can get help from the Building Control Department before you begin any work.
Designing the path of the waste passages will be your first task. The route should be as short and straight as possible, this will help to reduce future maintenance problems and costs. You should not make your pipe runs very steep although some gradient is necessary. Use the surveyor’s site level to calculate the drain fall over the complete system. By establishing a datum point and using a hose filled with water to establish levels you can calculate the fall from the datum in a situation when do not have one of these measures available.
Don’t compromise the stability of the house when setting up the drainage ditch. The foundation of the building should not be undermined by your digging if the drain runs parallel to it.
Try to leave as short a time as possible between digging the trench and installing the sewage system as an empty trench represents a risk with the potential for a sidewall collapse. You should attempt to get the pipes laid as soon as possible and, after inspection and checking, you should back fill the trench.
Because of different depth and soil conditions the trench will probably need to be supported. You should avoid any risks with this project. Be on the safe side and secure the sides of such risky trenches by propping with sheets or boards. Keep the trench as narrow as you can but of course make sure that there is enough room to work in the trench including any plan, machinery or tools you require. The bottom of the trench must be smooth and clean, free of any objects that make it uneven such as stones or bricks. If the material at the base of the trench is not appropriate then you might have to bring in new material.
Bricks and/or any other sturdy material should never be used to prop up the pipe in the ditch. Even if used for just a temporary support this can damage the pipe. The bedding should be made compact to fit around the pipe joints. You will need to provide a continuous and uniform support for the complete length of the pipe.
It is important that all parts of your drainage system and soakaway setup are designed so that all parts of the pipework are accessible to a set of drain rods. So that is why a run of drains should be as straight as possible between two points or inspection chambers. An inspection chamber should be present at places where the pipework changes its direction, this is important so that it remains accessible to drain rods and they do not need to go around corners.
Following this guide you can see that DIY plumbing and drainage can be delivered by conscientious DIY enthusiasts.